Best harness for alpine climbing reddit Raphael won a Piolet D'or for his 2013 FA of the northwest face of K6 West with Ian Welsted, and he was also a leading Canadian mixed climber ("sport wanker" as he called himself), helping to popularize bolted mixed climbing and sending some of the first M10s and M11s. For ATC, a smooth oval one is best. Feb 2, 2016 · So saving or spending the $40 difference fades away quick. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Not sure why this was downvoted - sport climbing and alpine climbing/solo-ing are not the same and just because you're a strong sport climber doesn't mean you can or should solo 5. And that says something because since 1995 I've phased in and out of sport rappelling, gym climbing, sport climbing, trad climbing, canyoneering, ice climbing, mountaineering, Alpine rock climbing, big walling, and now I'm into Alpine Nov 21, 2024 · Since we started more than 10 years ago, our team of lady rock crushers has tested over 30 of the best climbing harnesses for women. My hands down favorite has been the DMM Puma - I love love love harnesses with a floating waist belt so you can center it no matter what layers you are wearing; it has substantial gear loops oriented toward the front, a full size fifth loop even in XS; ice clipper slots, and strikes a comfortable padding For ice climbing, having four gear loops and some padding is nice, personally I have separate harnesses, and would recommend it. Even for trad. If he falls, the person below uses a belay device to hold the rope in place, and the climber only falls until the last anchor. I much prefer close and wide rather then telephoto but good to have options. The key difference is that alpine harnesses typically include features geared toward glacier travel and ice Apr 19, 2022 · - fixed leg loops: I generally find that with a well fitting harness a fixed leg loop still accommodates a range of pants from shorts to alpine layers - large gear loops (and rear haul loop/gear loop) and ice clipper slots (ideally 4) - comfort and fit: (subjective) Top of the list for me: Arc’teryx harnesses: the FL365 was perfect for me. Actually it's a FANTASTIC free climbing harness that also happens to be comfortable enough for big wall climbing and holds enough gear for even the most epic multipitch adventures (read: you can climb el cap with this thing). "But I'm not doing big walls!" you might say. Do you see yourself multi-pitch climbing? Buy a harness with with 4 gear loops. It is super comfortable on the back and the gear loops are rectangular. P. Apr 14, 2020 · While technically a light (11. S. My first harness had adjustable and I never changed them, they mostly just made it bulkier and hard to pack. Overall get a more solid harness, it's probably a better future investment and really the weight is not a huge difference. I use a Petzl sitta for alpine and a padded thing for indoors. He thinks it is fine to use, however I have a few concerns: the leg loop buckles are plastic, like what you find on straps for packs, it only has two gear loops, which makes it very difficult for him to carry gear when we're doing multi-pitches. (Truth; I've owned more cars than climbing harness'. g. But for more serious use (actual climbing), I'd look into Petzl Sitta instead. I think the best current gear option for weight optimization are the rabbit runners with a single carabiner. 4 ice clipper slots, 2 large molded front gear loops, 2 flexible rear gear loops (would work well when wearing a pack) haul loop, fixed legs, and a very popping orange color that will look nice in photos against blue ice lol. Unless you buy a high end sport oriented harness, they are all versatile, so buy what fits you well BTW, there is a thread for beginner's questions. +1 for the Sendero, it does a lot of things very well. With an impressive combination of comfort, adaptability, and durability, it's a prime choice for any climber, whether beginner or pro. It's great as an emergency harness, for glacier travel etc, it weights nothing and takes no space. It is a sport climbing harness, one of the lightest ones too but man does it hold its own on alpine terrain as well. Looking for a lightweight, packable harness for all things ski mountaineering: glacier travel, moderate ice climbing, rappelling. I would not use the harness in a gym, it's not really great for gym climbing, it's more of an emergency solution (shit it's raining, let's abandon out alpine objective and climb in a local gym). 6/5. 14, or climbing Cerro Torre in Patagonia, you’ll want the best harness for the job. Obviously it depends on your definition of alpine climbing, but for me that just means trad (or mixed) climbing in the mountains. and metal work can go through the belay loop. Nov 3, 2022 · The Arc'teryx C-Quence is the best all-around harness because it earned excellent marks across all our testing metrics and is versatile enough for any style of climbing. Needs 4 good size gear loops for trad rack. I just leave the fly open and tie into the harness through there. So will larger REI's. 10% mountaineering? Get a decent trad harness. At first glance, the Choucas Pro looks like an ultra-minimalist harness with flimsy features and no trace of support if, god forbid, you were to actually weight the thing in a fall. I can fit twenty draws and all my day kit fine. From what I’ve read, it seems like there isn’t an obvious choice; some people praise the Petzl Altitude, some hate it. If you get get to a dedicated climbing shop, like ones near a big climbing destination (Seneca in WV, Gunks near New Paltz, NY, Red Rocks near LV), they will have a lot more harnesses to choose from. The leg loops and aren’t fixed and the waistband can be opened completely. com Apr 4, 2025 · Due to a lack of ice-clipper slots, this harness isn't the best pick for alpine and ice climbing. Send your next project with one of the best women's climbing harnesses of 2025. For Revo, idk. Toprope and lead climbing: more often used in sports climbing. Aug 17, 2021 · They’re all best done in feather-light, lingerie-esque climbing harnesses, the Blue Ice Choucas Pro being a great option among those. Its got enough space for literally anything. the black diamond Gridlock or mammut’s bionic crosslock carabiner) is your best bet. I went through the guides and she was a little confused when checking my harness but she also understood the financial burden of gear. The climber lays down anchors while climbing and attaches the rope. Aug 25, 2023 · 12 Best Climbing Harnesses – Stay Safe, Secure, and Comfortable In All Environments Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 4 votes and 7 comments You should take look at Alpine Outfitters (not Alpine Dog Co - they come up in a search too). On here sits all the extra stuff. Just goes to show that sport climbing and alpine climbing are wildly different beasts. Opening and closing the leg loops is so awkward, I rather just step into the loops like with a normal harness. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Nov 6, 2024 · Whether you climb sport, trad, or alpine peaks, or love clipping draws in the gym, we've got you covered. Prana Kanab - not great under a harness. If you’re never going to weight the harness or hang at a belay, by all means, buy a skimpy little thing that will absolutely cut off circulation or dig into your skin. See full list on theadventurejunkies. Maybe plan to buy a dedicated Alpine harness down the road. But lately Climbing’s field-testing team has raved about one product making climbing undeniably safer: Mammut’s Alpine Core Protect Rope. Better bouldering pants LS mantra - reallllly good under a harness! Makes your butt look good LOL and feels good! BD notion - kinda bunch under a harness Mount hard ware Cederburg- really good under a harness! Surprisingly not bunch at all. I also have a standard sport/rock climbing harness. My experience has been that it's very comfortable for all applications -- I use it for everything from sport climbing to alpine climbing, even when I need to carry a double rack and draws (it definitely sags a little bit!)-- it's obviously not as comfortable as a much bigger harness with more padding, but I've never found it to be uncomfortable Right Rear: Alpine draws, nut tool, Rocky Talky. They have soft padding on all the straps to stop chafing. 4 alpine routes. Rather than falling into discrete categories, climbing harnesses tend to operate along a spectrum. New to climbing with a harness It's the only harness I own and it's a good "do it all" option IMO. Petzl - ice tools, climbing hardware MSR - most things are quality Outdoor Research - gloves Arcteryx - harnesses (will pay retail because they are the best on the market and it’s not even close), backpacks La Sportiva - climbing shoes, mountaineering boots Patagonia - most clothing Nov 9, 2022 · Tim N wrote: A couple more ice harness thoughts: - The Mammut Sender also looks like a very nice harness, especially for ice climbing. checking as a member of the ‘if pants fit my thoughts they’re way to small on my waist’ club for me in all my research the Camp Nova harness is the one i found with the biggest thighs-to-waist ratio, & im so happy with it! it was actually designed by female climbers rather than a smaller men’s harness & you can tell! like not only can it fit bigger thighs the waist band goes big enough This Harness is Made for high alpine Touring or Ski Touring, but it will do Just fine for via ferrata because its very light an small packing size and you will almost Not recognize it while moving. If I layer on puffy pants or hard shells, they ride below the gear loops. Dec 19, 2023 · Hanging comfort, belaying comfort, and mobility are also important metrics to consider, but many sport or gym climbing harnesses simply don't have enough room on their gear loops for all of the equipment you'll need to carry when trad or multi-pitch climbing. Jul 1, 2024 · Whether you’re top roping in the gym, projecting 5. (So I've been told, I'm new to this). It does the gym, sport, trad, ice, and alpine stuff very well. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. *edit. I can fit a quad rack and three seta nuts with ten alpine draws also. Hi anyone have a recommendation for a climbing harness for mountain trad use? Needs to be fairly packable and light for carrying (about 300-350g) but also reasonably comfortable for multi pitch use and hanging stances etc. Same harness only one has adjustable leg Climbing harness or alpinism Hey, so 10 years ago I used to do some rockclimbing, I dont own any equipment now, and Im doing mountaneering in the pyrinees now as my main activity, and got to that spot where I need a rope to do more routes, Im taking an alpine climbing and security course at the beginning of january and the one thing Im If so, go with a harness with adjustable leg loops. We’ve seen innovations that have made climbing easier, more comfortable, and lighter, from pants and ice tools to backpacks and belay devices. Don't compromise the 90% to save a small amount of weight and pack space during the 10%. 8ish, and in the mountains up to 5. I lead low 5. They do both custom made and have pre-made ready-to-go sizing as well. Personally, I just put my harness on over my soft shells at the start of my day. Really high up, used Panasonic LX series or canon G series as a compromise for weight/image quality. trad mixed climbing I will agree with the small/far back gear loops. Ideally a fleece or a synthetic which has - some wind-proofing, close fitting warm hood under a helmet, long arms and nice to have thumb loops, prefer a pullover and no pockets to avoid bulk around But for a grigri, a small D-shaped carabiner is best. ” Along with its men’s counterpart, the Sendero, it represents an interesting merger of a broad, perforated waistbelt and adjustable leg loops (the Soft Frame construction) with inner-thigh mesh patches—comfy for Mar 20, 2024 · Discover the pinnacle of safety, comfort and freedom in climbing with the best climbing harnesses. Unless your boy friends bigwall multi-day sieging, a Black Diamond solution or momentum is great. Another one I was considering when shopping for a new harness was the WC Session, which is very similar. If you want to for sure prevent crossloading, an 8-shaped carabiner (e. We found it was a large improvement in terms of comfort over previous Arc'teryx harnesses, especially where the newly designed and shaped leg loops wrap around the insides of the legs. Petzl makes some good ones that’ll pair well with it. Will give mild diaper butt. It’s an alpine climbing harness, with all the features meant for alpine climbing. Second best would be a climbing gym. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. I’m taking something similar on my next mountaineering trip. Hi, Would the following harness be ideal for via ferrata or do I need something more substantial? I’m aware it’s a lightweight alpine harness but I don’t actually plan to use it for any actual climbing, only via ferratas. Ice and Alpine Climbing. Im personally a fan on the camp energy harness, its pretty comfy, cheap, lightweight, and has a lot of adjustment points. Highly recommended. e. As the title states, one of my climbing partners uses a lightweight alpine harness as an all-around harness. One of my few must-have features on a climbing pack is having both a webbing and padded belt that I can switch between. 3 days ago · An alpine climbing harness offers most of the same features as a trad climbing harness. May 1, 2025 · In an effort to find the best available, we put a range of climbing harnesses—from fast-and-light alpine options to feature-heavy big wall offerings—to the test this year, taking them on trips from the cold Canadian alpine to the steep walls of Devil’s Tower to overhung sport routes at The Red. 5mm Alpine Core Protect Rope ($290 in 60m) (Photo: Brad Kaminski) Climbing-rope security has come a long way since the days of stiff hemp cords, and Mammut has taken their ropes to a new level with the Alpine Core Protect: a 9. But it does fall short on the extreme end of things, e. But if you prefer plugging cams, clipping bolts, or hanging at the gym, and especially if you want all of the above at an affordable price, the Sama will not disappoint. Full list From top to bottom: Helmet, Headlamp, Tinted Snow goggles, Clear goggles, Woolen Balaclava, Neck scarf, Outer shell, Warm top/ down jacket, Inner linings, Inner leggings , Leg outer shell, Crampons step in technical both dual point horizontal and mono point vertical, Boots compatible with crampons, Approach shoes, technical rock shoes Mar 20, 2025 · It’s been a memorable 12 months for climbing gear nerds. That Beal snow guide looks good. The solution harness is fine. There's no particular grade cut off at which you can start alpine climbing. I realize a Via Ferrata lanyard is the best choice, but would prefer not to purchase one only for this one trip if there is a safe alternative that I can fashion from existing gear. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. You literally cannot beat the Arc'Teryx big wall harness. 2 oz S) alpine rig, the bluesign-certified Autana felt like a “high-end sending harness. It’ll work but other harnesses are much more comfortable. If you don't care about cost, the Arcteryx harness are super thin and comfy. Alpine climbing mid fleece/synthetic layer Looking to replace my old Patagonia Piton Hybrid Hoody which was amazing but now has too many holes. Here are seven of our favorites in 2024. The other reason I love alpine harnesses is that they take up very little space in my pack and they weigh very little. 10 outdoors and have climbed trad up to 5. It’s a harness for alpine climbing. 7 or so. Beyond belay+anchor+rap+PAS materials, the only time I'm bringing anything else is on a 4+ pitch route (water bottle clipped to my harness, plus a little food in the follower's pack if it's >=200m long), or an alpine trad route (add a tiny multi-knife and 20' of cord in the follower's pack). They make harnesses for skojoring, canicross, sled-pulling etc, and also regular harnesses too. Hey everyone, I interviewed Raphael Slawinski and thought you would enjoy the chat. You can use a rock climbing harness for mountaineering but you can't use a mountaineering for sport. I have bought SO MANY harnesses in pursuit of this exact issue and also correct fit. It's also quite uncomfortable for rappelling. Harnesses designed for ice and alpine climbing require the . For a day up the chief in squamish or snow creek wall in leavenworth. One person stays below and slowly gives out rope as the other climbs up. My thought for a DIY system was my climbing harness with a length of climbing rope figure 8'd to my tie in loops with two ends connected to locking carabiners. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Maybe also look at Petzl Hirundos as that was my first choice but my local shop did not have it so I haven’t tried it Nov 15, 2024 · Mammut 9. Generally if you go to a climbing store you can have the staff tie you in so you can feel how comfortable the harnesses are you actually put weight on the straps I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. Cheers I choose between racking on my harness with only a 1in webbing hip belt that stays out of the way (small pack/light load) or using a low profile harness and racking on the pack's padded hip belt (heavier loads). Really this is more of a best multipitch subalpine rack question. I use mine for everything; ice cragging, alpine climbing, long trad routes, sport climbing, etc. In addition to being a vital part of every climber’s safety, harnesses offer varying levels of comfort, adjustment, organization, and weight. Although, having them far back is nice for keeping stuff out of the way of my legs. Best Climbing Harness For Alpine Climbing: Arc'teryx Edelrid autana. This rope handles and catches falls Apr 4, 2021 · Here are the best climbing harnesses: Petzl Sama; Arc’teryx FL-365; Black Diamond Chaos; Edelrid Jay II; Petzl Sitta; Black Diamond Solution; Black Diamond Momentum; How to Choose the Best Climbing Harness for Your Needs Types of Climbing Harnesses. But, I wouldn’t want to use it for ice climbing. 5mm single rope that has a second sheathe woven with burly Aramid fibers. Posted by u/magical_lemur - 8 votes and 20 comments Admins, please delete if not allowed. A harness like the finely tuned Blue Ice Choucas Pro is a better alpine harness. Unless you're planning on ice climbing or your thighs are an odd size, I would recommend getting fixed leg loops (no buckles). For me, the time and effort for climbing meant I used a Full frame DSLR on a chest harness. But I wouldn’t wear it for roped rock climbing. May 9, 2024 · The Arc'teryx AR-395a is a top-notch pick by climbing enthusiasts across the globe. Yes! Have 3 of them on rotation, would not hike with/walk my dog in anything else than a 3 point harness (the ruffwear webmaster -used also in search and rescue- would possibly be even better, but it has a paw-pullthrough construction on the front cheststrap (i. Our review features 11 of today's top models, including great options for gym, rock, alpine, and ice climbing. I normally bring 12 alpine draws with two carabiners each as my standard rack. enlsw lrw pcuqxt vea ycoubk bmuhxr wetly jqls xogvmm hpjhfni