Belay device and carabiner Aug 15, 2019 · Most people's first locking carabiner is the one they buy for their belay device. HMS carabiners can also be used to belay with a Munter Hitch, which does not require a belay device (if you happen to drop your belay device on a multi-pitch climb). Combination of the belay device and HMS carabiner with screw lock and keylock nose. But the passive in this belay device simply refers to the fact that it doesn’t have any moving parts. It can happen to anyone. May 7, 2025 · A locked biner prevents accidental gate openings so you can climb more safely, and every belay device should be attached to one. Climbing Technology MORFO BG Ergonomic light alloy carabiner with the Brilock (BG) closure system. Jul 11, 2024 · As skinnier and skinnier ropes hit the market, it’s very important to make sure that your belay device safely pairs with your rope. Due to the fact that the Belay Master 2 is specifically designed for use with belay devices, we assessed it primarily for this function only. It’s kind of a funny term simply because there’s nothing passive about climbing. For more detailed information and instruction, we recommend learning from a certified mountain guide. Take 1 more carabiner. 50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue 7075 Aluminum Alloy 4. Many belay devices can be used to control either one rope, or two ropes in parallel. Breaking Strength: 25kN (2500kg) Weight: 60g/2. Gatekeeper Belay Carabiner. A belay device functions like a brake on the climbing rope. Some belay devices work better with certain diameters of rope (the tested rope diameter range is listed on the side of the belay device – though often the smoothest operation is in the middle of the range). Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t Dec 5, 2024 · When loaded in “assist” mode, a clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. Shop our ATC Guide, ATC XP & more belaying & rappelling gear. If that’s you, check out our side-by-side comparison of the two devices. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. When it comes to belay devices, not all carabiners are created equal. The standard for belaying these days is a brake assisted belay device (required in many gyms). Aug 15, 2019 · While this carabiner is effective for the purpose it is designed for, we found it to be laborious to use, and honestly felt a bit exasperated having to open and close the gate so many times to fiddle the locker onto our belay loop, or to add the belay device, especially during long sport climbing sessions or at the gym. belay lanyards, auto-block knots and out of sight anchor points etc. You might only bring a couple lockers to the sport cliff, but it's not uncommon to have six or more on your harness when heading up a multi-pitch route. 46 oz. Apr 8, 2022 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing 4. (79 g) Apr 24, 2024 · Belay Device Notes. Apr 25, 2024 · About this item . Luckily, we here at The Crag are going to help you get through the process of choosing the right Carabiner/Belay Device setup with this easy guide, perfect for the approaching holidays. Because of the size and spacing of the mega jul’s rope slots, there is a risk that the rope(s) may twist into the wrong slot. 8 out of 5 stars 658 19 offers from $7929 $ 79 29 Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. Nov 16, 2015 · When it comes to belay devices and carabiners, climbers have more options now than ever before. Verso Belay Device - Compact Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope; Easy to use: - Easy to install the rope with diagram engraved on the belay device Feb 22, 2024 · Common Uses. Sep 15, 2020 · You never want to cross load a carabiner. Dec 15, 2021 · Orienting the carabiner in the other direction, with the opening side facing out, as if it were any other guide mode belay device, may cause failure of the belay device. 2mm on down) ropes; Less likely to kink a stiff rope than a Grigri thanks to V-groove rope channel that keeps rope in a straight line Dec 20, 2023 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing - Grey 4. These belay devices allows dynamic belay with slip of a rope. This is not the locking carabiner to be taken in the pack on a long overnight climbing trip into the mountains, on ski mountaineering trips or on most multi-pitch climbs. Name: ATC belay device . We've been testing locking carabiners since GearLab's inception in 2010, and in that time, our team of dedicated expert climbers has tested nearly 40 different locking carabiners. It features a belay retainer which helps prevent cross-loading, and a unique horned spine to help keep your belay device in position. If you’re using a tube style belay device, an HMS carabiner is usually the better option, preferably one with round stock or a steel in the basket for smoother feeding. This assistance is not as powerful as that provided by the active assisted braking devices on the market, but it generally catches falls completely and holds the Jan 22, 2025 · Orientation is “built in”—device stays reliably upright on your belay loop; Belay action is close to the body and ergonomic, with no locking carabiner in the way; Feeds silky-smooth with skinnier (~9. This belay device has a pinching mechanism between the carabiner and the device to help it stop the rope. May 31, 2025 · You might think that all carabiners are the same, but a suitable belay carabiner can make all the difference when it comes to releasing slack, dropping safely, and avoiding tragedies. Oct 1, 2020 · The best shape for a belay carabiner is HMS or pear-shaped. LOCKING CLOSURE Feb 29, 2024 · Your belay device will influence which shapes will work best. 【#3】2-Pack 6mm Prusik Loop 12-inch. Since the carabiner is the only thing keeping the rope and belay device attached to your harness, it will need to be strong and sturdy. Shop for belay devices at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. ). The breaking done with these belay devices is very low. Most gyms only allow belaying with a brake assist belay device. 95. It’s a specialized locking carabiner for pairing with a belay device, especially ATCs and other similar devices. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Belay devices usually attach to the harness of the belayer via a carabiner, and are usually made of aluminium or an alloy. Check the crab is locked and then unclip the other carabiner from the ground anchor, now climb. 5 to 11 mm (optimized for 8. Read below to get started! Petzl AM'D BE UP is the only such device that lets you do this, simply by inserting a normal HMS carabiner in the unlocking hole; rapidly switching from taking-in (guide mode) to belaying the leader, for leading through; Apr 27, 2021 · Accordingly, lots of climbers in the market for a belay device wonder whether to buy a GriGri or an ATC. Aug 21, 2013 · You’re lying if you say you’ve never dropped your belay device and watched it go “tink, tink, tink” all the way down to the base of a route. Passive Assisted Braking Belay Devices. The Gatekeeper is a very easy to use belay/rappel 'biner that keeps the carabiner properly aligned on the belay loop to help prevent cross loading. 8 out of 5 stars 2,579 ratings Dec 21, 2015 · Customers find the belay device and carabiner package to be durable, with one customer noting it has never failed during indoor or outdoor toprope/sport climbing. 5 out of 5 stars. The double carabiner brake rappel is the best way to descend without a traditional rappel Jun 21, 2023 · The DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner is a perfect example. Made from quality, durable materials, Mammut Belay Devices are built to withstand the rigors of the mountains. 4. For a complete stop there is a need for vigorous effort of the belayer. Dec 4, 2020 · To use these devices, you need a carabiner to attach them to your belay loop or an anchor system. 5 to 11mm in diameter | Credit: Emily Malone Locking Carabiners. 5 mm strings). Assisted braking belay device for versatile use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access; Position close to the body due to direct harness attachment increases brake rope control and improves usability; Direct harness attachment eliminates the risk of cross-loading the belay carabiner Aug 31, 2021 · That horn prevents most autolocking belay devices from migrating around the carabiner. (70 g), Auto 2. Hot-forged and lightweight, it is ideal for constructing belays, for connecting yourself to an anchor and for critical connections (e. 8 out of 5 stars 2,581 16 offers from $7400 $ 74 00 This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. Some belay devices can also be used as descenders for a controlled descent on a rope, that is abseiling or rappeling. Reviews of the 3 Other Belay Devices We Tested Edelrid Mega Jul. From the gym to the single-pitch crag to the high alpine, the variety of climbing styles is matched only by the variety of belay devices and techniques. The ATC belay descender is suitable for 8 - 12mm single/double rope. $22. 9 out of 5 stars 2,556 15 offers from $8899 $ 88 99 This device utilizes a large surface area in contact with a climbing rope to provide sufficient friction along with the proper technique to be used as a belay device or for rappelling. A large, locking carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is well-designed for belaying and rappelling. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Some belay devices work better with certain carabiners. A figure 8 (sometimes just referred to as an 8) is used in conjunction with a climbing harness and locking carabiner to control a belayed climber's descent, or Feb 22, 2020 · Nowadays, many climbing gyms have incorporated a useful device to help individuals climb without a belay partner - the auto belay. A few are added to the rack for constructing top-rope anchors, and even more when they start multi-pitch climbing. Our Belay Devices cater to a variety of climbing adventures and techniques, featuring innovative designs that deliver smooth, efficient rope handling and precise control. Automatic locking mechanisms such as a twistlock gate are also available. 8 out of 5 stars 2,580 17 offers from $7400 $ 74 00 Mar 10, 2025 · Use a safe locking carabiner with your belay device. Only a locking carabiner should be used for a belay device, so as to eliminate risk of the carabiner’s gate opening as a result of getting hit by an object (like your hand or other gear on your harness). Material: 7075 aviation aluminum . In general, a large, rounded, and smooth carabiner without any snag points doesn’t cross load much – but some are designed so it never happens. Attention: Check and maintain the equipment before and after use to avoid risks caused by mistakes. The rope is folded and pushed through the device and clipped with a locking carabiner to the belayer or directly to the anchor. 9 mm to 10. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Blue : Sports & Outdoors A slightly larger, modernized, auto lock version of our best-selling Element carabiner that features a smooth gate-to-body transition on the bottom of the carabiner eliminates the belay loop hangups common to other auto lock carabiners. Shop Carabiners, Quickdraws, & Belay Devices For Mountaineering and Rock Climbing From the Best Brands Including Petzl, Black Diamond, Edelrid, and More! Petzl GriGri is a climbing belay device with an assisted braking system. Not all belay devices are suitable for every type of climb. Make sure the gate is facing down, away from the bight of May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. 8 oz. Design with 0. Without exception, you should always use a locking carabiner in tandem with a belay device. This device is so, so close to unifying the advantages of the ATC-Guide and the GriGri 2. 7 out of 5 stars 2,358 Jan 7, 2019 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing Visit the PETZL Store 4. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. 12oz . It’s a compact, pear-shaped design and wide rope-bearing surface for smooth belays and reduced wear. It is mainly used for sports climbing. Here is a good overview of the different belay A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. Belay devices drop up and down during belaying and can often become cross-loaded. It is designed to facilitate belaying maneuvers and works equally well for belaying the leader and the ropes. They appreciate its functionality, ease of use for beginners, and perfect setup for belaying, while also praising its blue color and safety features. Many belay-specific carabiners have different ways of preventing this. When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. But when the rope is slack, the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned. 8 4. It can be used on all dynamic single strings on the market from 8. Clip this carabiner across the second set of carabiners, beneath the bight of rope. Mar 15, 2020 · Belay device / belay device with Carabiner . Take a look at the top 10 picks for the best belay and rappelling carabiners for your partner so you can have the best rappelling and belaying experience possible. g. The latest Petzl Grigri can accommodate ropes 8. Great for bottom AND top belaying your partner as well as rappelling down a single or double rope. Nov 2, 2023 · Carabiners for Belaying. FREE delivery Thu, Dec 19 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon. Nov 22, 2016 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing 4. But have no fear: If you have four carabiners of any shape or gate type, plus a locking belay biner, you can make it to the ground. The most common locking mechanism you will find is a screwgate. The included belay device is awesome though. It doesn’t matter if it is locking or non-locking. 4cm rubber wire rope, the guide belay device is easy to store and easy to operate. Wish it included a twist lock carabiner for the belay device, but can't win them all. Take a bight of the rope and pass it through the second set of carabiners, going from the bottom of the carabiners towards you. 【#1】 V-grooved Tubular Belay Device: light and compact, smooth rope control, EN 15151-2 and UIAA certified; 【#2】 HMS screw locking carabiner: 25kN breaking strength, large gate opening, both CE and UIAA certified. Other Belay Devices. With belay devices without blocking function there is one important thing that needs to be mentioned at the start. Explore durable climbing belay & rappel devices from Black Diamond to gear up for your next descent. This is my primary locking carabiner, which I use with belay devices, with munters (it is an HMS, designed to take munters readily, even on double ropes), and many other situations. 35. Belay devices without blocking function. Oct 12, 2023 · Bottom Line: Although you can use Offset D locking carabiners to hold your belay device, history has made a Pear/HMS the most popular choice. In practice, this was the one anti-crossloading device that I really appreciated. Friction caused by the bent rope's contact with the belay device slows down and stops the rope, helping to protect the climber. Belay device / belay device with Carabiner . The climbing rope is threaded into the belay device and secured to the belay loop of the belayer’s harness with a carabiner. Jan 8, 2019 · Overall Utility. com : PETZL NEOX Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Orange : Sports & Outdoors Aug 13, 2024 · The biggest divergence is although the side plates have a hole for a locking carabiner, the Edelrid Pinch can attach directly to the belay loop as long as it’s less than 3/4-inch wide. Dec 20, 2023 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing 4. Clip the free locking carabiner to your belay loop. . com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Grey : Sports & Outdoors May 17, 2025 · BEST FOR: BELAYING & RAPPELLING. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. Enjoy long-lasting performance, year after year. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. Oct 31, 2023 · Chalkbag is cool and appreciated. 95 $ 22. Dec 16, 2022 · A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Next to consider is size. BELAY SET EAGLE Screw / HURRY. Belaying with any style of belay device (indoors or out) Anchor carabiners for outdoor sport climbing or trad climbing; Ice / Alpine / Winter climbing – Screw gates tend to be the easiest locking style to finagle back into action if/when they freeze shut. Climbing carabiners are available at stores that sell outdoor recreation equipment. These tend to have a wide gate opening and are easy to attach to belay devices and ropes. Aug 7, 2019 · The big slot adjusts your ascent speed, the middle extra slot could be used as a belay device, and the small one could connect a climbing carabiner or other equipment. The first and most important rule: it must be a locking carabiner. GM CLIMBING Belay Package. Overall great kit! Perfect for gifting as it comes in a nice, presentable box. Dec 5, 2024 · The Right Device for the Climb. NEW Auto Locking Design; Weights: Screw 2. Mechanical devices can use most carabiners, though a belay device with a horn is most intentionally designed. Purchase a locking carabiner that is designed for use as climbing gear. This carabiner is hot forged with a widened spine to prevent the migration of assisted braking belay devices. Many of these devices (like BD Pilot, Mammut Smart, Edelrid Jul series) lock quicker and better with a carabiner that has a more rounded top that adds more resistance (versus a carabiner with a very thin top area). A slight curve in the spine gives it a wide gate opening so you can quickly set up your rope and belay device. One reason that a Pear/HMS is touted superior is: if you, unfortunately, dropped your belay device you could still use a Münter hitch to belay/rappel. When used with a regular tube-style device, cross-loading is still possible, although slightly less likely.
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